The Best Deck Stains 2024

by Clay

deck

Updated for 2024 – Best Deck Stains

One of the newer, more impressive stains on the market right now is the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. It’s a water-based, synthetic resin, semi-transparent stain made with high-quality resins that bond firmly to the wood. Check out this deck stain to save yourself some time and effort as it can be applied the same day as prep. It’s a little more money than the cheaper ones you see advertised a lot, but worth it in the long run.

In this article, we’re going to talk about the different types of stains – which are the best deck stains and which are the worst deck stains to put on your wood. If you’ve been doing any research on how to stain a deck or patio, you’ve probably noticed that deck stains usually come in one of two categories: water-based deck sealers and oil-based deck sealers. There are some very important differences between the two that you need to be aware of.

Comparison of Deck Stains: Oil vs. Water

Traditionally, oil-based deck stains have been the preferred method to stain a deck. They penetrate into the wood very well, they look good when you put them down and they have a decent lifespan. When you do some further investigating, you begin to notice some not-so-desirable characteristics of these stains.

The first problem is that they are made of natural resins, which is basically food for algae and mold. Ever notice the large black regions of mold growing on your deck? You guessed it, the mold is eating your stain right off your deck. And not only that, once it starts, it becomes a breeding ground for more mold and algae, and it begins to grow, eventually taking over your whole deck!

A Toxic Dilemma

To counteract this, manufacturers put a heavy amount of toxic algaecides and mildewcides in these products. Over time, with UV sunlight and rain, these chemicals are brought to the surface of the wood and eventually washed away. This presents a two-fold dilemma…one being the safety of barefoot children absorbing these toxic chemicals into their skin, and the second being that once these chemicals are washed away, it’s open season on your deck for mold and algae attacks.

The other problem with oil-based stains has to do with new environmental laws. Oil-based products typically are much more dangerous to the environment and are beginning to be outlawed by the EPA. So far, the following states have outlawed almost all oil-based stains: California, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Washington DC, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Virginia.

Aside from their negative environmental impact, oil-based stains are more difficult to work with, only clean up with mineral spirits, and take much longer to cure than water-based stains.

Up until recently, there hasn’t been a good alternative for oil-based stains. Deck owners simply had to deal with the unsightly algae growth, environmental damage, and safety issues. There have recently been vast improvements in water-borne technologies that have allowed water-based stains to penetrate like an oil stain. There’s a newer product out called Defy Extreme Wood Stain that has this new water-based technology. It resists mold and algae and it’s environmentally friendly.

Natural Resin and Synthetic Resin Deck Sealers

We’ve already talked about how oil-based sealers contain “natural resins” that promote algae and mold growth. The alternative option is to use a stain with “synthetic resins”. These are man-made resins that imitate natural resins with one big advantage. They aren’t a food source for algae. That’s right, mold and algae would never think about eating this stuff! It performs just like the natural resins of the oil-based stains but is a synthetic material designed to work the same without the mold growth.

Because synthetic resin sealers aren’t going to be food for algae, it’s not necessary to add a bunch of mildewcides and algaecides to the stains, making them much more family-friendly and environmentally friendly.

Clear, Semi-Transparent or Solid Color Deck Stains

The next thing to consider when choosing a deck stain is whether to use a clear deck stain, a semi-transparent deck stain or a solid color deck stain. All three have their advantages and disadvantages, but the semi-transparent is usually the best choice for staining your deck. I’ll explain why.

Best Clear Deck Stains

Most clear products are not able to hold up to the UV rays well enough to give you a significant lifespan. Frequently, the clear stains vanish within a few short months of applying them. On top of that, most clear deck stains aren’t totally clear. They have an amber tint added to them to give them extra UV protection. If it weren’t for this amber tint, your deck would turn gray in a matter of weeks rather than months.

Best Solid Color Deck Stains

The solid color stains are great for vertical siding or posts, areas that don’t get as much direct UV damage from the sun. The problem occurs when you put a solid color stain down on the flat parts of your deck. This is the area that gets the most damage and direct sunlight. Add to that the fact that people and pets are walking on it, contributing to even more wear and tear. As solid color stains weather over time, they tend to peel rather than fade. You end up with a mess. Simply applying a stain stripper is normally not enough to remove these stains. Frequently, the only option becomes using paint stripper, a highly dangerous and toxic substance that can cause burns and kill your surrounding vegetation upon contact.

Best Semi-transparent Deck Stains

Semi-transparent stains are far and away the best choice when it comes to staining your deck. They have a tint to give them added UV protection which extends their life to a year or more, and sometimes up to several years. The tint still allows you to see through to the wood grain below giving the wood a nice, rich finish without hiding the texture of the wood. Also, they are super easy to maintain. Usually, the maintenance process involves a simple cleaning, and then a re-application of the deck stain once every other year or two. No stripping involved!

Conclusion

When it comes to the best decking stains, these are the main issues that you need to be concerned with:

  • Water-based stains are the way to go, ditch the oils – easier to clean up, more green-friendly
  • Synthetic resins, not natural resins – no mold, and no toxic chemicals
  • Semi-transparent deck stains rather than clear or solid color deck stains – easier to maintain

Keeping in mind these points when buying a deck stain will save you a lot of time, money, and labor. Remember that with deck stains, you get what you pay for. Cheap deck stains are made with cheap resins and inexpensive fillers that won’t last. Buy a more expensive deck stain with higher quality resins that will last and keep your wood beautiful over time while protecting it from the elements.

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Leave a Comment

204 comments

karen dorman June 2, 2013 - 12:36 pm

I have used a Sico Wood Finish with alkyd resin. The product itself lasts quite good. However after two years on my white cedar deck has mold growing between wood and stain. I bought the only stripper available from Rona to strip it that says it works on most stains. Its not working!!! I live in Canada can I still buy a stripper that will remove the stain with the new environmental laws. I will remove mold and sand after but need to first get the stain off. I am also using a pressure washer. I am not a newbie at doing deck. Just first time using these products. Thanks for your help

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Alf June 1, 2013 - 1:03 pm

Hi, I would like your recommendation on a semi-transparent stain/sealer for a 7 mos, never stained, deck made of pressure treated pine.
I live in coastal NW Florida, where we have hot (high 90s) and humid summers, and winters in the 30s. Deck receives direct sunlight throughout the day. I have read good reviews anout the TWPs (100, 1500), Armstrong-Clark, and Defy Extreme stains, but I cannot decide for which one. Also, what about a marine grade stain and sealer.
Thanks,
Alf

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administrator June 5, 2013 - 9:15 pm

Alf, Defy Extreme for this.

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patrick carrese May 11, 2013 - 8:54 pm

What semi-transparent stain should I use on new pine log siding? What prep would you suggest? Should I stain all 6 sides? I live in upstate New York. Thank you for all the helpful advice.

Patrick

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administrator May 12, 2013 - 11:34 am

I would look at the Defy Extreme for this. Let the wood season after install for a couple of months. Prep with a cleaner and wood brightener. No need to stain all sides. Just the exposed side after install.

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Bob May 9, 2013 - 1:55 pm

What would you recommend for cleaning and staining a large pergola? We have a pressure-treated pine deck and large pergola. Both were stained using Cabot oil-based semi-transparent black. Yes… black! The semi-transparent lets the grain show through, looks sort of “dark-brownish” and actually looks very good next to our yellowish house. I’m having the deck restained and will probably do the pergola this fall. Everything says it is important to clean and brighten a deck before re-staining. What do you do to a large, 9 foot tall pergola with lighting installed? Cleaning or stripping seems like it would be VERY hard, getting to the tops of the horizontal beams and all. Is thiss a DYI job or do I need to hire a pro?

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administrator May 9, 2013 - 5:27 pm

Bob, I would hire a pro to get this project done correctly.

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Iain November 7, 2012 - 4:32 am

Anyone know where I can get twp 100 in Canada? how could I find old stock? was it even sold in Canada?

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administrator November 7, 2012 - 10:54 am

TWP 100 is not sold in Canada.

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Thomas Wendel October 1, 2012 - 4:42 pm

What do you recommend for something that must be solid white ?

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administrator October 1, 2012 - 6:26 pm

Flood makes a nice solid stain that can be tinted white.

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chris August 6, 2012 - 6:04 am

Hello – thanks for posting all this helpful info!

Looking for some recommendations on prepping and staining an older, pressure treated deck with an unknown stain.

The former owner left a gallon of “Behr wood-toned weatherproofing cedartone wood finish.” I’ve replaced a few boards with stored spares (presumably from the original install) and applied this finish; it doesn’t match the rest of the deck (which looks more like a rustic redwood). Also, the rest of the deck is/was fairly uniform in color with grain showing. I’m guessing this means its a semi-trans, or semi-solid; but don’t know how to distinguish.

The deck also has a few repairs with new pressure treated wood which is unstained.

Would you be able to advise on:
-tips on identifying the old stain type
-recommendations on stripper and stain (currently considering the RAD stripper and brightener, and Defy Extreme)
-I did see a post from someone in our area (Portland, OR) who complained about the Defy brand’s durability. Maybe that was due to incorrect prep. However, if an oil based is preferable for this area, do you have a recommendation on one that has synthetic solids to inhibit mold and mildew?

Thanks!!!

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administrator August 6, 2012 - 9:57 pm

Chris, Behr can be difficult to remove. A good stain stripper followed by some sanding may be needed. Defy makes good stains but if you do not prep the wood or apply the stain properly then you can have issues. This goes for any brand of stain and is not related to Defy.

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William Fuller July 22, 2012 - 6:59 pm

Going to be restraining a 4 year old pt deck . Used a Sherwin Williams decikmate on it and did not hold up at all. Only lasted about 8months.Have pressure washed and used a deck stain remover and deck is pretty clean. Do you recommend a reviver to be used before I restain and am considering TWP 100 this time. What are your recommendations.

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administrator July 22, 2012 - 7:08 pm

You should use a wood brightener after the stain stripper. TWP is an excellent stain.

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Ginger July 17, 2012 - 3:13 am

Hi! We have a wood playset, over 20 years old. We live in MN…lots of weather elements. 😉 We have mold/algae problems. We have just finished cleaning and sanding the playset, but we are having a hard time deciding on the best stain/seal. Do you have a recommendation for us? We had looked at the TWP100, but then found out that it was toxic to fish, so we weren’t sure about using that on something that children would be playing on??? Thank you in advance for your help. I REALLY appreciate it.

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administrator July 17, 2012 - 1:19 pm

Ginger, I would look at the Defy Extreme Stain

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Matt July 13, 2012 - 2:29 pm

Hi – I am building a large playset for my young children out of pressure treated southern yellow pine, with tongue and groove pine siding. I live in CT, and the set is mostly shaded in summer, with direct sunlight at the end of the day for about 4 hours before sunset. I am looking to use a semi-transparent tone to keep the wood grain, but give it some color. What product would you recommend to stain the wood, can I use it on both the PT and non-PT surfaces?

I would like to spray if possible.

Thanks!

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administrator July 14, 2012 - 11:01 am

Matt, I would look at the Defy Extreme Stain in the Natural Pine. It can be used on all wood. It can be sprayed but you will need to back wipe for uniformity.

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George in Marland July 4, 2012 - 1:22 am

Got a 25′ x 14′ deck in the back with woods all around. Deck is on second floor with steps to ground level. In 2010 contractor butchered my deck over using Cabot semi-transparent oil base oak brown in color. I had another contractor removed what he could and left as is in 2011. After one year of allowing wood to weather I am ready to apply stain. There is still color from previous stain (2011) left in wood. Do I need to strip or could I just stain over with similar or darker semi-transparent oil base. Do I have to stay with the CAbot product?

Help!!!

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administrator July 5, 2012 - 10:24 am

I would strip it off and switch to a better brand.

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GE Crary June 26, 2012 - 10:52 pm

Defy was used on our new fir (I think) deck. It was very expensive and very technique sensitive to apply. But the product information made it sound worth it.
The application was done in July and by Feb. with very little deck traffic/use, the surface was worn off in large patches.
We reapplied carefully following the directions. This was last Aug. By this early spring the surface looked ratty and worn, also with little use.
I wish I had spent extra to use prefabricated deck “wood.”
Any suggestions for this Portland OR deck’s next refinishing?
Thanks.

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administrator July 2, 2012 - 10:39 am

De Cary, I would look at a stain that penetrates a little better. Maybe TWP or Armstrong.

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Mark June 19, 2012 - 2:42 am

We are in blazing hot Oklahoma and just completed a PT deck around our pool. How long should we wait to stain the deck and what stain would you recommend for our region – oil or water base? What brand would be best? After reading your comments above we will stay away from the big box store brands! Thank you!

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administrator June 19, 2012 - 10:14 am

Mark-

I would wait 1-2 months then clean and brighten the deck to prep. As for the stain I would look at Defy Extreme Stain for this PTP deck in full sun.

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Mark Hudson June 13, 2012 - 8:22 pm

Restaining my cedar sliding. South side of the house is bad shape and the rest of the house is okay. What do you recommend for Indiana weather for vertical surfaces? Water or Oil based? Brands? The house was painted with solid stain. Two coats on all surfaces? Thanks!

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administrator June 14, 2012 - 6:44 pm

We only work with semi-transparent stain. Not sure on the solid color stains.

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Bobbie June 9, 2012 - 10:25 pm

A stain “expert” sold us oil based, solid body stain, (best choice to get a color close to our house paint). We bought Cabot, followed the can directions and contractors advice but within a year it was peeling, cracking, 4 years later it’s a disaster. With 2 huge decks around trees/bushes, we cannot strip it off. So what should the preparations be and do we use oil or water base solid body stain again or paint? Any help is appreciated. THANK YOU!

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administrator June 10, 2012 - 12:32 pm

Bobbie, no matter what you do you will be subject to the Cabot causing more peeling if you do not remove it all off. This obviously puts you in a bad position. If you clean and re stain now with another solid stain, it will peel again within a couple of years.

In the “experts” defense, all stains eventually peel. New wood more so then others as the wood is not very absorbent.

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Ted pixley May 17, 2012 - 1:19 am

how easy is the defy extreme and twp1500 to strip- looking down the road…just had a horrible experience stripping a 20 year old deck with multiple coats of Benjamin Moore alkyd stain

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administrator May 17, 2012 - 7:40 am

Ted, both are easy to remove with a stain stripper.

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Dan May 6, 2012 - 5:30 pm

Hi, I am in Canada, and I have a 6 year old Press. Treated deck.
Ive tryed the water sealers but they will grey out every year. I have a pool and a lot a sun and kids,. Oil based stains are hard to find here in Canada but there are 1 or 2. The majority of companies are going with the hybrid. What would u suggest out here in canada.

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administrator May 6, 2012 - 8:33 pm

Dan, You can still order many high end wood stains on the Internet and ship them to Canada. One suggestion would be the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain.

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Marty April 24, 2012 - 10:02 pm

Great site, thanks!
Re. new cedar dock sections for freshwater lake:
1) What is your opinion of simply letting cedar WEATHER NATURALLY rather than staining it at all? How long would it last? Would the wood rise and cause splinters?
2) If we go with a stain, does it make sense for cedar to weather a season before application? If it grays and we don’t use brightener, would a cedar-tone color recapture the original look?
3) If we stain dock, does the underside of a dock also need staining (could mildew or algae form underneath and seep upwards)?

Marty

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administrator April 25, 2012 - 10:27 am

1. Left untreated the cedar will gray and start to splinter. It will still last 10+ years but it will not look very good.
2. You can let the wood weather for a year but you must use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener to prep prior to staining.
3. You do not need to do the underside.

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Bill April 24, 2012 - 9:41 pm

i have a pressure treated deck with multiple types of stains & water sealers applied to it.over the years

want to strip it and restain.what do i have to do?
what is the best product for press. treated wood?
thanks
NEW YORK

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administrator April 25, 2012 - 10:24 am

Bill, removing multiple layers of old coatings and stains can be very difficult. You may need to apply a deck stripper numerous times to get all of the old coatings off the wood. I would look at a powdered deck stain stripper as they are more cost effective. Restore-A-Deck Stripper and HD80 are a couple.

There is not a best deck coating. I would look at Armstrong Clark Stain, Defy Extreme Stain, and TWP 1500 Series for New York.

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Anthony April 24, 2012 - 1:06 am

I recently purchased a home with a 1000 square foot cedar deck. The previous owners stain with Cabot oil base solid stain. I used a stripper and power washer on the deck only to discover that most of the wood is cracked and splintering. I decided on replacing with PT wood. Is this a good choice or not??? How long will I have to what to stain? The deck is exposed to direct sunlight for a majority of the day. What stain would hold up best? Also part of the deck is built around a inground pool. Location is in the north east. any information will be helpful.

thanks

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administrator April 24, 2012 - 9:52 am

PTP is a popular choice for exterior decking. Typically you will need to wait 1-2 months after installing the wood prior to applying a stain. For brand new decking we suggest stains that are able to penetrate into the wood well. TimberOil Brand is a popular choice.

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sue April 23, 2012 - 12:59 am

I would like to know why you can’t use Olymic Premium acrylic latex stain on hortizonal surfaces. It says only on fences, siding, furniture and only vertical surfaces. I want to use it on the flooring of my deck. It is a semi transparent stain.
sue

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administrator April 23, 2012 - 11:13 am

I am not familiar with the Olympic Acrylic Latex. If they do not suggest it for floor decking then I would not use it. It will probably peel.

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Kristle April 15, 2012 - 11:02 am

Good evening,

What would you suggest we use on our merbau deck. We have a Labrador dog and 2 young children so the deck gets pretty dirty and is hard to clean. Needing something to make it look nice again and something thats easy to clean. Thanks!

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administrator April 15, 2012 - 2:53 pm

I would clean and prep your exotic hardwood deck. Deck cleaning such as Restore-A-Deck will help with this.

As for a stain, there are may types and brands that are of higher end. See here for a good list of stains for exotic woods:

Exotic Hardwood Stain

Some of the more popular are:

IPE Oil
Messmers Hardwood
Penofin Exotic Hardwood Stain
Defy Hardwood Stain

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Jeff April 12, 2012 - 6:30 pm

thanks!
Are you talking about Cabot Timber oil?

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administrator April 15, 2012 - 2:49 pm

No the cabot timber oil is completely different product and not the same.

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Kelly April 11, 2012 - 6:39 pm

Thanks for your answers! The house is 23 years old and needs a bit of repair where knots have let go so I am thinking semi-solid would be best to hide what ever it is going to be repaired. I like the look of semi-transparent but I am worried that the damaged areas would show through?

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Kelly April 11, 2012 - 12:26 am

Hello, I just moved to a house with wood siding (pine or cedar but not sure which LOL) that needs to be finished. We live in Northern Ontario where temperatures fluctuate wildly throughout the year from -40 in the winter to 90 in the summer. The front faces South and the wood looks dried out and faded whereas the back of the house facing North (waterfront side) has gone almost black. We plan to clean the siding with a cleaning product and pressure washer then apply a semi-solid stain to hide repair work to the siding/left over discoloration. We were thinking stain not paint because we would like to see that it is wood still. Any thoughts on oil versus latex for this project? Recommended products that we can get in Ontario? Thank you!

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administrator April 11, 2012 - 10:49 am

For a semi-solid stain I would look at the Armstrong Clark Stain. It is an excellent penetrating stain that is easy to apply as well. You can buy online here:

http://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm

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Jeff April 9, 2012 - 11:22 pm

Matt, I am looking for a stain to apply to a brand new boat dock. It has pressure treated lumber and has aged about 9 months. The actual dock is 6′ x 110′ which is exposed to sunlight all day. Other areas are covered. Do I need a clear, semi-transparent, or solid? I would like for it to be as maintenance free in the future with minimal re-applications. Name brands I am familiar with and can get locally are Sherwin Williams Deckmate, Home depot Behr, and Lowe’s Flood. From feedback I have received….Flood semi-transparent is the best considering price and longevity. Any advice and info you provide will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

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administrator April 11, 2012 - 10:51 am

For new wood I would use a semi-transparent penetrating wood stain. all of the stains you can get locally are poor in quality, Flood though is better then the other two. Best would be to buy online. The Timber Oil Brand is excellent for brand new wood application.

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