Updated for 2025 – Best Deck Stains
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain: A Top Performer
One of the newer, more impressive stains on the market right now is the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. It’s a water-based, synthetic resin, semi-transparent stain made with high-quality resins that bond firmly to the wood. A key advantage of this stain is its same-day application—you can apply it right after prepping your deck, saving both time and effort. While it may cost more than budget options, its long-term durability makes it a worthwhile investment.
Understanding Deck Stains: Best vs. Worst Options
Deck stains generally fall into two categories:
- Water-Based Deck Sealers
- Oil-Based Deck Sealers
Each type has significant differences, and understanding them can help you choose the best stain for your deck.
Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Deck Stains
Pros and Cons of Oil-Based Stains
Traditionally, oil-based deck stains have been the go-to choice due to their excellent penetration into wood and rich appearance. However, they have several downsides:
- Mold and Algae Growth: Natural resins in oil-based stains serve as food for mold and algae, leading to unsightly black patches on your deck.
- Toxic Additives: To combat mold, manufacturers add strong mildewcides and algaecides, which can leach out over time, posing a risk to children and pets.
- Environmental Concerns: Due to their harmful effects, oil-based stains are being phased out by the EPA. The following states have already banned most oil-based stains:
- California, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Washington D.C., Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Virginia.
- Difficult Cleanup: These stains require mineral spirits for cleanup and take longer to dry compared to water-based alternatives.
Why Water-Based Stains Are Superior
Water-based stains have improved significantly in recent years, making them the best alternative to oil-based products. A standout option is Defy Extreme Wood Stain, which uses advanced technology to penetrate wood deeply while resisting mold and algae growth. Key benefits include:
- Synthetic Resins: Unlike oil-based stains, synthetic resins are not a food source for mold and mildew.
- Low Toxicity: No need for harsh mildewcides or algaecides, making them safer for families and the environment.
- Easy Cleanup: Simple soap and water cleanup.
- Faster Drying Time: Less downtime between application and use.
Choosing the Right Deck Stain: Clear, Semi-Transparent, or Solid Color?
Deck stains come in three primary finishes:
1. Clear Deck Stains
- Offer minimal UV protection, leading to quicker fading and graying.
- Most clear stains have an amber tint to extend lifespan.
- Typically last only a few months before reapplication is needed.
2. Solid Color Deck Stains
- Best for vertical surfaces like railings or posts.
- Not ideal for horizontal deck boards due to heavy wear.
- Tend to peel over time, requiring difficult removal and stripping before reapplication.
3. Semi-Transparent Deck Stains (Best Overall)
- Offer UV protection while allowing the wood grain to show through.
- Long-lasting, with some lasting several years before needing maintenance.
- Easy to maintain—typically requires a light cleaning and reapplication without stripping.
Final Recommendations
When selecting the best deck stain, keep these key takeaways in mind: ? Opt for water-based stains—they’re easier to clean, environmentally friendly, and longer-lasting. ? Choose synthetic resin stains—they resist mold and require fewer toxic chemicals. ? Go for semi-transparent stains—they provide the best balance of protection, durability, and aesthetic appeal.
While cheaper deck stains may seem tempting, they often contain low-quality resins and fillers that won’t last. Investing in a high-quality deck stain ensures better protection, longer durability, and a more beautiful deck over time.
204 comments
I have an east facing cedar deck that I’ve been told is less than 5 years old (I just moved in). It certainly doesn’t appear any deck treatment has been used previously. The deck has mildew on it that becomes slippery when wet. Boards, rails, etc seem to exhibit normal and similar wear all around. Out house is located in Minneapolis so the deck is exposed to extreme temperature ranges and obviously snow.
If this was your deck, what steps are you going to take and with what products/brands? Thanks
Matt
You need to prep the wood with a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. Once dry you should apply a transparent but pigmented wood deck stain. I would start here on this link to get you going with the correct products: Deck Staining Help
I have a deck east facing on the shore in Maine. Port Orford Cedar was used but was laid tight together. I waited a couple of years and applied Cabot’s oil based deck stain. I have since reapplied that and the drying time is weeks! Also the deck boards are rotting in many places. Any suggestions??
I would strip it all off and start with a better stain that actually dries properly. These stains would work well:
Defy Extreme Stain
Armstrong Clark Stain
TWP 1500 Series
I note the very negative comments here about the Behr products, which I was planning to use, in solid stain form, to refinish my 20 year old redwood deck of 360 sq ft., in Southern California — i.e. no oil based stain here, anymore.
I refinished with semi-transparent for a few years, and then went to solid stain. Now the current Olympic solid, water based, stain has worn off on much of the deck, in just over 2 years. Not “flaking” particularly, just the color wearing thin leaving many bare spots.
The IRONY is that I am looking at the Consumer Reports Buying Guide for 2011, which reflects that a product called Behr Deck Plus Solid color Deck fence and Siding Wood Stain (200 line), at $26. a gallon, is substantially superior to everything they have tested.
You note here some kind of penetrating WATER based stain now available that is superior, but do not indicate what kind. Are you sure about this Behr product, which may be new? Any other thoughts for me?
Consumer reports testing for deck stains is very flawed. The main thing they look at is appearance of the stain. They do not take in consideration application, ease of re-coating when they fail (they all fail eventually), and or removal when needed.
Behr deck stains are considered to be one of the worst if not the worst by professionals in the industry. IMO it is a horrible product. Does not stain evenly, always peels, and is extremely difficult to remove. It does have great color retention though if you can get past the peeling on the rest of the deck. In addition their warranty is a joke.
The Defy stains are penetrating water based stains and are far superior. Unfortunately they are semi-transparent and will not work over a solid stain like the Olympic that you used.
We have 5 year old pressure treated Southern Pine decking
which has been thoroughly pressure treated for a new finish. Under the eaves there are areas where all of the original semi- transparent
stain could not be removed with pressure washing. Must I sand these
boards before we apply stain? We are planning to use Cabot Semi-Solid Oil stain… And NONE of the previous posts have dealt with the requirements to fill the many cracks or not to fill… Tour thoughts?
Thank you.
You should remove as much as possible. A deck stain stripper works better then sanding.
Wood filler does not work on outside wood. It will not look good and will “fall” out with changes in season.
Regarding the need to do the underside of the deck: My house has a walk out basement, so the decks are elevated. Since the decks were built, I have installed a pool and patio, and the underside of the decks are noticeably visible from these areas. So, it would be nice if the underside was not an eyesore. In retrospect, I should have constructed the decks with some sort of system to shed water, so the space below could have a finished ceiling and allow more functional living space… something to consider for a future project. In the short term, I would just like the underside, deck posts and beams to look more finished. The fascia and deck rails are maintenance free white synthetic material. The posts and beams have never been stained, but the joists and underside of the deck boards were stained with original application. Stripping or sanding the underside of the decks would just be too messy and laborious. Any suggestions, short of tearing the decks down and starting over? Thanks!
I have a 9 year old pressure treated deck that was stained with a solid Sherwin Williams oil based product shortly after the deck was built. The new deck surface was probably not properly prepared for staining, and stain on the deck surface peeled badly within the first year. The underside of the elevated deck was also stained, but very little peeling has occurred there. The deck has not been re-coated since. It is time to bring the deck back to life. Recently, the deck was power washed and sanded, but there are still some traces of the gray stain remaining. I am considering using one of the water based products you recommend to stain the deck. Since I will not be able to remove all traces off the old stain, I think I will have to stick with a gray stain. Would the the Defy epoxy in Driftwood Gray be a good choice? Can I apply it over the old oil satin on the underside of the deck without having to strip the whole thing? Would you recommend using a stripper and brightener on all surfaces, whether or not they have been sanded? I want to maximize the outcome for the near term and minimize future rework and maintenance. I would appreciate your advice on how to proceed.
I would use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener to prep wood after your sanding. This will open the pores so the stain will absorb better.
The Defy Epoxy in the Driftwood gray would be a good choice for the exposed side. It may not adhere on the underside though. Is there any need to do the underside?
I have a 20 year old ceder deck with two issues. 1) It had planters on it which rotted through. We are now patching the deck with new ceder. A contractor sanded the entire deck. It looks good, though there are obviously some shade differences between between the old cedar and new. How is it best to handle this job? The chap I am working with tells me to use a semi-transparent stain Cabot or Sherwin Williams. I am being told prep is not needed after the sanding, and to apply two coast onto the newly sanded deck. Should the red cedar be prepped? Is so what is the best method? 2) We are going crazy with color decisions. The problem is many places do not have samples available, and the color chart is not accurate. We like a grey that resembles a weathered look. Is there a name of a color that fits this bill? We also are interested in knowing if there is a “popular” color since we are going to be probaby sell in three years. Thank you!
1. New wood will not match old wood when stained.
2. Cabot and Sherwin Williams are average stains at best.
3. Sanding is not the proper way to prep wood. Best to use a wood deck cleaner followed by a wood deck brightener to open the wood pores
4. Grays are not popular at all. Cedartones are by far the most popular.
Thanks but I am unable to find any of those in the state I live in..PA
How is the 2 in 1 stains?
We had a large deck built around our pool last August. It was pretreated but we havent stained it yet. I would like a light semi-transparent color. What is the best product for a deck that is always getting wet and in direct sunlight all day? I need to stain it asap because one or two of the wood pieces are bending. We live in Northeastern area so snow is a factor also. Thank you
For the Northeastern part of the country you need a stain that is VOC compliant. I would look at one of these three stains:
Defy Extreme Stain
Armstrong Clark Stain
TWP 1500 Series
All are excellent stains!
We have a large redwood deck that we will be sanding today. I want to get a semi Transparent stain to use. My sons friend builds decks and he recommended Super deck stain. My son saw a 5 gallon can yesterday at a local lumber store for $155. How does this Super Deck compare to the Extreme wood stain?
Super Deck is an oil based stain with average durability and color retention. It has issues with “darkening” in color through the years. One positive about Super Deck is that it is easily removable when you want to switch brands in the future.
Defy Extreme stain in one of the three tints will have superior UV protection.
Forgot to say we are in southern maine very close to ocean and salt spray!
Hello,
I need help! I am installing a new american mahogany deck in a upper location that has a full southern exposure . This will be our first time and we want to do it correctly. The deck we ripped out was also solid mahogany only three years old and the homeowner had it painted with cabot waterbased or oil based semisolid wood stain or paint. The wood was totally rotted and covered with mold. Here are our questions. Do we pretreat the wood before we install it, do we need to clean it to open up the wood pores for staining? Do you pretreat the entire wood top and bottom end to end before installation? The homeowner wants the deck painted a solid color. Can you tell me what products to use, I am interested in the water-based Defy line. I know to predrill holes and use stainless screws. Thanks so much!
Why would the homeowner want to paint a beautiful new mahogany deck with a solid color stain? The Defy stains are semi-transparent. You would want the Defy Hardwood stain. You do need to clean and prep the wood before applying a stain. No need to pre-treat before installation. Just clean, brighten and stain the exposed areas after installed.
First off let me say thanks for the valuable information that you are providing here, it’s much appreciated. OK now to the question, I live in Northwest TN and have a 15 x 18 deck which was built with treated cedar or pine and it’s time to apply some protection to it. I have already power washed it, in the process of sanding it down and now I want to make the right choice on what to protect it with, I want to use a semi-transparent stain and give it a little color and I’m just stumped on what is the best product to use, I know it won’t last forever but I would like something that can withstand the hot sun, mild winters, repels water well and good for lots of foot traffic and also a dog running across it and when it is time to reapply that I don’t have to spend an outrageous amount of time stripping and all that over again, Thank You!
I just sanded my cedar deck with 80 grit sand paper. Now I need to choose a stain. I want to use a semi transparent stain. Home depot has Behr and Flood brand stains. Would you recommend one of these brands?
No. Home Depot does not carry quality wood deck stains. Behr is one of the worst stains on the market. It applies unevenly, it peels after one winter, and it is extremely difficult to remove when it fails. There are class action lawsuits them. Stay Away!
Any of the stains are better: Best Deck Stains
I live in WA state; just installed a new cedar deck; the contractor said to wait to stain after week of dry weather. It rains here you know!!!
Do I need to prep this material in any way before the semi transparent stain goes on??
Yes all new wood should be prepped with a Wood Cleaner and a Wood Brightener prior to staining. This will remove the mill glaze and “open” the wood pores so the stain can properly absorb into the wood.
Please read this: Stain A New Deck
My deck has the Elite wolmanized pressure treated wood, installed late last year. I love the color of the deck and would like to keep it that color. Should I use the transparent or the semi-transparent with a color that closely matches the wood? Will the color fade to a gray color if I use the transparent?
Also, I used a preservative for the first coating. Do I need to do any other prep work besides the deck wash (Deckbrite) before staining?
Semi-Transparent stains will hold color longer then transparent stains. What preservative did you use?
We have a locust deck. Any special recommendations for staining this type of wood? Thank you.
It is a hardwood wood so you would want a stain that is designed for this type of wood.
Locust Wood Stains
I’ve resolved to the fact that no stain will last 2 years on the floorboards of my pressuse treated wood deck. I ended up sanding the entire deck down and now am ready to stain. If I plan to recoat every year, what product would require the least amount of prep to recoat each year. I want a semi-transparent stain. I have heard oil based stains are best for this scenario. I have had issues with water based stains not being able to be recoated easily.
I would look at this stain as it absorbs extremely well and can be cleaned and re coated whenever needed without stripping.
TimberOil Brand
I live in Idaho and have a south facing deck that gets full sun all day & snow in the winter. It is 17 years old and has had Super Deck semi-transparent costal grey put on it every year or two. They are no longer making the costal gray so we need to make a switch. Any suggestions. I would like to stay with another water based stain. Also what do I do to prep for the next stain? Thanks love your site
I would look at the Defy Epoxy in the Driftwood gray.
Make sure to use a stain stripper and a wood brightener to remove the Super Deck stain.
BTW, Super Deck is an oil based stain.
Since I just used the Cabot on my 900 ft deck I’ll be looking into the TWP & Armstrong Clark Stain when I need to re-coat in a few years. Would I be able to put a deck cleaner on my deck and then put the new product down w/o stripping down to the bear wood? I am in direct sun 7 hours of the day which product of the two would you recommend from the TWP or Armstrong ?
If I am using the same type of stain do I still need to strip it? I decided to stay with the Cabot semi transparent same color. What will the deck brightener do that the cleaner didn’t. Since I’m staying with a oil stain do you have a favorite product over the Cabot that will do well in direct sun all day long? I thank you for you time in answering my questions.
If the Cabot has not worn unevenly then you should be okay with using a wood cleaner to prep for applying an application of stain. The wood brightener neutralizes the wood cleaner and “brightens” the wood. It does not brighten an old stain. There are many high quality oi-based stains. Here is a couple of my favorites:
TWP Stains
Armstrong Clark Stains
Clay
I just finished the installation of a new 700sf deck using KDAT clear pine – beautiful wood with no knots. Since the wood is new and kiln dried I am ready to apply a stain immediately – I don’t think I have to clean it – correct? The deck is in Atlanta and south facing – gets full sun. Which semitransparent stain would you recommend?
Thank you.
All new wood should be cleaned and brightened before applying a stain. This removes any mill glaze and “opens” the wood pores. I would look at the Defy Extreme Stain for this application.
I have a mahogany deck that needs refinishing this year. I was using Australian timber oil but it does not last. The deck had some graying and that finish is almost gone. What should I use to strip the remaining timber oil? Should I use something to enhance the color? What stain should I use that will last awhile at least? Thanks!
I would use a wood stain stripper to remove the left over Cabot Australian Timber Oil.
Best to use a stain the has a pigment in it. I would look at one of these two for Mahogany wood:
Armstrong Clark Stain in Mahogany
Defy Stain for Hardwoods in Light Walnut
If I am using the same type of stain do I still need to strip it? I decided to stay with the Cabot semi transparent same color. What will the deck brightener do that the cleaner didn’t. Since I’m staying with a oil stain do you have a favorite product over the Cabot that will do well in direct sun all day long? I thank you for you time in answering my questions.
You should use a deck stain stripper to remove the Cabot first before applying a new coat of stain. The Olympic cleaner is not very good at prepping the wood. Make sure to use a wood brightener as well.
The oil based stains will still be around for the time being and the future. If you want to switch to a water based stain then I would suggest the Defy Extreme Stain as it will do the best for you sunny deck.
I used Cabot semi transparent oil stain “mission brown” on my 900 sq ft deck. It’s been two years, it’s peeled and it’s time to clean it up. I used Olympic deck cleaner on it but have read about the new laws about getting rid of the oil based stains. I don’t want to use a oil base stain it I can’t guy it again. Since I have cleaned the deck can I put down a water based stain on it without doing anything else.? What product do you recommend? The deck is in the sun from 11 – 4 I live in Maryland
I bought a house 2 years ago that has a 500sqft deck. The wood is grayed. I have no idea what was applied to it in the past or how old the deck is. The house was built in 1994 and it was a foreclosure so I wasn’t able to ask about it’s history. I finally have some money to purchase stain; however I’m not sure what to use.
How can I tell what kind of wood it’s made of?
I live in Michigan and it has a western exposure.
If it Michigan it is most likely pressure treated pine or cedar.
The Defy Stain for Hardwoods would be best for a Tigerwood deck.
Any suggestions on a stain for a new ‘tiger wood” deck?
Many Thanks
Clay,
I have a pressure treated wood deck and boat house, built last year, which were treated with a semi transparent cedar color stain. It seems to have lost all its water repellant qualities and has faded to white in sunny areas. Should I re-treat it with a high quality water-based clear stain or a semi-transparent stain. Do you have a brand you would recommend?
David.
Clay ,
i just put a brand new 450 sq ft deck on my house in july . i live in ohio and we get about 120″ of snow . we plan on staining the deck next spring a dark brick red color or whatnot , and were told a waterseal would be a good idea to apply before winter here in a few weeks.
its pressure treated southern pine , standard 5/4 board.
should i just let it go over the winter as the wood is still young and itll be fine? and then just pressure wash in the spring and stain away?
im worried the water seal will repel the stain if i applied the seal now and then tried to stain in the spring .
any help would be appreciated. thanks!
Jeremy