Updated for 2025 – Best Deck Stains
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain: A Top Performer
One of the newer, more impressive stains on the market right now is the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. It’s a water-based, synthetic resin, semi-transparent stain made with high-quality resins that bond firmly to the wood. A key advantage of this stain is its same-day application—you can apply it right after prepping your deck, saving both time and effort. While it may cost more than budget options, its long-term durability makes it a worthwhile investment.
Understanding Deck Stains: Best vs. Worst Options
Deck stains generally fall into two categories:
- Water-Based Deck Sealers
- Oil-Based Deck Sealers
Each type has significant differences, and understanding them can help you choose the best stain for your deck.
Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Deck Stains
Pros and Cons of Oil-Based Stains
Traditionally, oil-based deck stains have been the go-to choice due to their excellent penetration into wood and rich appearance. However, they have several downsides:
- Mold and Algae Growth: Natural resins in oil-based stains serve as food for mold and algae, leading to unsightly black patches on your deck.
- Toxic Additives: To combat mold, manufacturers add strong mildewcides and algaecides, which can leach out over time, posing a risk to children and pets.
- Environmental Concerns: Due to their harmful effects, oil-based stains are being phased out by the EPA. The following states have already banned most oil-based stains:
- California, Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Washington D.C., Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Virginia.
- Difficult Cleanup: These stains require mineral spirits for cleanup and take longer to dry compared to water-based alternatives.
Why Water-Based Stains Are Superior
Water-based stains have improved significantly in recent years, making them the best alternative to oil-based products. A standout option is Defy Extreme Wood Stain, which uses advanced technology to penetrate wood deeply while resisting mold and algae growth. Key benefits include:
- Synthetic Resins: Unlike oil-based stains, synthetic resins are not a food source for mold and mildew.
- Low Toxicity: No need for harsh mildewcides or algaecides, making them safer for families and the environment.
- Easy Cleanup: Simple soap and water cleanup.
- Faster Drying Time: Less downtime between application and use.
Choosing the Right Deck Stain: Clear, Semi-Transparent, or Solid Color?
Deck stains come in three primary finishes:
1. Clear Deck Stains
- Offer minimal UV protection, leading to quicker fading and graying.
- Most clear stains have an amber tint to extend lifespan.
- Typically last only a few months before reapplication is needed.
2. Solid Color Deck Stains
- Best for vertical surfaces like railings or posts.
- Not ideal for horizontal deck boards due to heavy wear.
- Tend to peel over time, requiring difficult removal and stripping before reapplication.
3. Semi-Transparent Deck Stains (Best Overall)
- Offer UV protection while allowing the wood grain to show through.
- Long-lasting, with some lasting several years before needing maintenance.
- Easy to maintain—typically requires a light cleaning and reapplication without stripping.
Final Recommendations
When selecting the best deck stain, keep these key takeaways in mind: ? Opt for water-based stains—they’re easier to clean, environmentally friendly, and longer-lasting. ? Choose synthetic resin stains—they resist mold and require fewer toxic chemicals. ? Go for semi-transparent stains—they provide the best balance of protection, durability, and aesthetic appeal.
While cheaper deck stains may seem tempting, they often contain low-quality resins and fillers that won’t last. Investing in a high-quality deck stain ensures better protection, longer durability, and a more beautiful deck over time.
204 comments
Reference my last post on the new PT deck. It is 1 yr old. oops…
Matt, I would use both a wood cleaner and a wood brightener to prep the new wood. TWP 1500 Series is a much better overall stain then Sherwin Williams. I would not sand. You want the wood to be a porous as possible for the stain and sanding can reduce the stain’s ability to absorb into the wood properly.
I have a PT deck around my pool that is 3 years old. I used Sherwin Williams oil based toner and now the horizontal surfaces have faded and in many areas have no stain. The wood looks old. I plan to strip it and then use a nuetrilizer. Also considering using a drum sander as there is some shallow splitting in may boards. I want to use a semi-transparant. Deck is in direct sunlight all day. Not going to go with Sherwin Williams again. I see from posts that the TWP 1500 series is good? Also, I have another new PT deck that has not been stained. I used a brightner on it, is that sufficient to remove the mil glaze and prepare it for the stain?
[…] or peeling off so quickly. Then they fall into the cycle of searching for a “better” or best deck stain that will last longer when in reality it wasn’t the fault of the deck stain but rather the […]
Just flipped our deck boards- pressure treated. Had to replace some with new ones. Getting ready to pressure wash them and need help on what to do next before staining. How long do we wait before staining and make sure the stain is even on the old and new boards. Want to use a semi transparent stain as well.
Thanks for your help!
I would wait 4-6 weeks then use a wood cleaner and a wood brightener to prep the wood for staining. It will not be possible to match new and old wood the first time. It will be close but not exact.
Thanks for your feedback,I’m taking the Kelly-moore back, and I ordered two samples of Defy Hardwood because that’s what the defy rep advised he didnt say I needed the extreme maybe because it doesnt snow where I live. So my question to you is what if I hate the color choices, is there another brand that has better color choices. The Redwood carriage gate and doors are much better quality of wood smooth compared to redwood rough fence wood, also my new redwood decks surrounds large cyprus trees so it will get debris. Is the water base stains better than oil base? I want the best quality easiest maintanence because I have hire people to do all this stuff. Thanks for your help!
We just built a month old Redwood deck and a 3 month old redwood fence with a redwood cottage stlye double gate and door. I live in Pacifica, Ca which is 20 miles south of San Francisco and close to the coast. Does Defy make a semi transparent that darkens the Redwood like a deep Cherry color. I purchased Kellymore Acry-sheild water based semi transparent stain but am not sure of its quality, so I’m hesitant to use it. I have a large deck and don’t want to stain every year. Also I have an Epi hardwood deck off my bed room and have noticed like green stuff on it what should I use to clean and stain? It’s turning grey so I think the stain that was placed 3 yrs ago is worn off?
The closest Defy color to a “cherry” would be the Defy Epoxy Fortified Stain in the Redwood tint.
You should use a Deck Cleaner and a Deck Brightener to prep the IPE before re applying a stain.
I would not use the Kelly Moore stain. It is similar to a paint in that it will film on top of the wood.
makes sense, thought three coats was overkill, thank you for the help
need some advice. live in Nebraska yard faces south, not much shade in afternoons or early evening. Have a 10×38 deck made of pressure treated wood. Rebuilding new deck using Cedar for floor, composite for railing and aluminum balutsers. Using pressure treated for frame. slight slope under deck. deck is only 15 inches off the ground on one end and 3 feet on the other. Jocies are rotting away and boards are sinking on the end seams. that is the the reason for the changeout. Ok question is, I plan on staining the entire board including ends. Contractor said I should stand the boards on end and hose down about three times then allow a final dry, then put on about three coats of a tranparent stain before boards are laid. I am concerned about the deck level being so close to the ground that if not treated boards will over time begin to rot, hence the coating. I stained my cedar fences with Panofin, and other than the smell from the rosewood oil, it did a good job. I had planned on using Panofin for the deck floor but now after reading your page I am not so sure. three coats seem extreme but I am not an expert and for what I am paying for this deck other than a recoat every couple of years I have no desire to replace any of it. Any help here, am I being told straight and is Panfin a good choice for a deck? I know it is for a fence but there is no traffic on a fence. Or should I consider the water base stain you have talked about
Thanks
There is no need or real benefit to sealing all sides of the board. Staining/sealing is for exposed areas not the undersides. Even if you did apply the stain to the underside it would only help for a few years at best.
Over applying the stain is a very bad idea. Depending on the brand name, you should only apply 1-2 coats of stain on new wood. I would suggest reading this article: 101 Deck Stain Tips
Another good read is this: Staining a New Deck
Penofin makes some good stains. I would also look at the Defy Stain and the TWP Stain for your area.
Ok, now I see the resemblance of the TheSealerStore brand and another product 😉 Still would like your sage advice.
TheSealerStore TimberOil is a completely different stain then Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil.
Any material difference between the TheSealerStore brand TimberOil and Cabots? I’ve seen a negative review or two regarding Cabots; no hits on the TheSealerStore brand.
Ok. Thanks. Also, please forgive my ignorance in advance, should I use the deck cleaner and brightener on the “new” cedar wood if I stain right away? It’ll be ok not to stain deck until spring? I’ve seen a lot of post about wood graying, etc. Assuming I’m being a little paranoid..
Yes, new wood needs to be cleaned and brightened prior to applying a stain. It may turn gray by Spring if you wait but the cleaner and brightener will remove the gray.
Hi. This is a great website. Thanks for all the sage advice!
We live in Iowa and we are having a cedar deck built that should be done next week. We should have a few more 45 degree plus days to stain the deck shortly after it is completed and snow appears. Based on earlier comments, for a new cedar deck, it appears recommended brands would be TimberOil or Defy for Hardwoods for a semi-transparent stain and Defy Extreme Clear if we wanted to retain original wood color. We do have a few questions:
1) Are all three, easy maintenance- no stripping; just brightener and reapply?
2) How would you rank them in order of preference?
3) With winter coming up shortly, should there be anything special done, like cover deck floor with tarp, etc. or will deck be good to go with dried product.
Thanks in advance!!
1. All three wood need a wood deck cleaner and a wood brightener the reapply.
2. I would look at the TimberOil or Defy Stain for Hardwoods. Having a tint will retain the color 2-3 times longer then a clear.
3. If you want to stain as soon as it is done being built then I would use the TimberOil. If you want to use the Defy then I would wait until Spring. No need to tarp.
Thanks
We recently bought a home and want to stain a 20 year old redwood deck and rails that have never been stained or maintained. It is extremely weathered but mostly in good condition. We intend to replace about 10% of the boards with new redwood. What is the procedure you would recommend to get a uniform look on the horizontal decking and solid white on the railing? Thank you
It is not possible to match new wood to 20 year old wood when using a semi-transparent stain. The new wood is less absorbent and will turn out lighter in color then the older wood. It is not a huge difference but will be noticeable.
As for prepping the wood I would look at this deck cleaner and wood brightener system. This will help restore the older wood and prep the new wood.
Lots of good comments here, but now I am really confused what to do with my deck (so many conflicting ideas on the internet). I live in Reno, NV and my back deck gets extreme sunlight. I am not certain of the kind of wood, maybe pine or white fir? It is in relatively good condition, not very old. I believe it was painted shortly before we moved in last year. It has been peeling up just shortly after we moved it, so we stripped it with first a power washer, then realized that we had to sand it to get the majority of the paint off (90%). I was told by a local to use a primer, then a solid stain. Seemed reasonable, but now after reading these posts, I want a semi-solid stain? And I want to prep it to open the pores? I don’t mind doing a little maintenance every year, but I sure as hell don’t want to strip, scrape or sand every year, or ever again for that matter. thanks for any pointers!
I would look at this link to help narrow down your choices: Deck Stain Help
Thanks for your insight. Wish I had found and read these before using Behr water based on my cedar deck. Behr chipped immediately when moving chairs and pealed after just months of winter moisure. Looks like Defy for hardwood is the is the way to go.
It amazes me that Behr still sells it’s deck stain when it has so many problems.
I recently built a deck using pressure treated wood. The deck has dried to a perfect shade and i want to maintain the current color/look of the wood. please suggest which product i should use to maintain the current color/look of the wood. I DO NOT want to change the color of the wood and therefor do not want any color in the stain. Also, what type of prep work do? it’s less than 2 months old, and receives plenty of sun. Im in the North East (Toronto-area).
If the stain is not tinted then you will not get UV protection for more then a year. Clear stains/sealers in general do not offer UV protection. The only one that offers some UV protection is the Defy Clears and they will only last 9-12 months. If you get the Defy Stains in one of the tints then the stain will offer UV protection for 2-3 years or longer.
Just had a deck added to house – above ground, treated pine wood, western PA, half exposed & half under a roof. Trying to determine between Defy Epoxy, Defy Extreme, and TWP 1500. Any suggestions? Also wondering if it is better to brush on or use a pad for the first time staining? Thanks in advance.
All of the stains you mentioned are excellent and will work very well. The main difference is that TWP is oil based and Defy is water based.
Applying with a stain pad is better and easier in my opinion.
Use anything but Sikkens, I put that stuff on my deck and it peeled within a month, spent $450 and 30 hours taking the stuff completely off and restaining it with Defy. Run away from Sikkens, don’t walk.
Sorry you had an issue with Sikkens. It is not one of my favorites either.
Hello,
thanks very sincerely for all your good advice!
This is a real conundrum for me. I had some serious health problems and am very sensitive to chemicals. I need to figure out what to use.
I just ripped off the rotten for decking (painted) that has deteriorated and has been repaired time and time over the years. We can’t keep paint on it and it’s a moist area that doesn’t get much sun.
I considered metal (and I’m still investigating). I’d probably like to use untreated cedar but I’m not sure if I can tolerate the outgassing (fumes) from the periodic application of the treatment.
Any suggestions and ideas for someone like me?
Mark
You could use a wood like IPE that does not rot or decay. If left untreated it will turn gray though. Just clean annually.
wow..what a great resource you are!
We need to put a new finish on our fir farmers porch (covered).
The house is about 10 years old and it’s the original stain-just looks weathered. We added new fir stairs last fall and now we need to get the porch floor and stairs to look somewhat alike.
what do you recommend for fir? We like the semi-transparent look.
Should we just clean the floor or should we lightly sand as well?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Hello. I have a ~ 550 sq ft open pressure treated pine deck and screened in deck of ~250sq ft in Central Maryland. We had some of the deck replaced that was rotten and now have both new and about 15 year old decking. It is primarily in the shade and gets lots of leaves and tree droppings, and gets green algae. It has been pressure washed and so has slightly raised grain. The only treatment in past years has been Thompson’s wood sealant. The old decking is gray and the new decking is just beginning to lose its orginal color (2 years old), the inside deck floor is slightly grayed. The vertical wood on the interior deck is cedartone and pressure treated wood colors. I would like to bring the deck back to life and to harmonize the color. After reading about deck staining I hope you can help with some questions:
I don’t want to sand the whole outside deck, but the railings are pretty rough, is it okay to sink the nails and sand them before I start treating the deck, or should we replace them?
What product do you recommend? I was leaning towards Defy Epoxy but then I saw a post that said it wears off quickly. I’d like as maintenance free as possible. The deck does not get a lot of traffic, but does get lots of leaves and tree droppings. Would the new TWP 1500 be better in the wearing and appearance over the years?
What do you think of the Wolman Deck Brite wood cleaner and coating prep? My son tried it and it didn’t do much. He may have not scrubbed enough, though… Do you recommend something that might work better, assuming I still need to scrub with a bristle brush to clean?
Do you think cedartone transparent will bring the old and new wood close enough in color tone?
Thanks very much – great website.
To prep the wood I would look at the Restore A Deck Products. This is a two step system that will help restore the natural color of the wood. You can find it here: Deck Cleaner
Defy Epoxy is a great stain. I would also look at the Defy Extreme Stain as this offers the same protection as the Epoxy but with better UV resistance.
If you clean and prep the wood properly then the old and new wood will be close in color
What semi-transparent stain do you recomend for a new cedar deck?
How long does the new cedar deck need to sit before staining?
I would like to seal the cedar deck before winter so it doesn’t gray out. I want a stain I can refresh every year or two without power washing. Any suggestions?
I would look at this stain fro your new cedar deck.
TheSealerStore TimberOil
You seem to recommend Defy products most often, but also Armstrong Clark and TWP. I’m wondering what would be best for my situation. We are building a new composite deck with rough cedar skirting. We especially want to preserve the wood color with the lowest maintenance. What do you think would be the best product for rough cedar on a vertical surface? (We are in Wichita, KS (humid, but not tons of rain. The deck is on the north side of the house and parts of it do get substantial shade.) I’ve been leaning towards Defy Hardwood formula (but noticed the can specifies SMOOTH cedar). Is rough cedar harder or easier to penetrate. We’d really rather not have the expense of the deck wash.Thanks so much.
Since it is all vertical I would go wit the Defy Extreme in one of the three tints. It will offer the longest UV protection.
Ok, thank you! I’ve spent some time this morning researching both the Defy Extreme and the TWP 1500 Series. I can’t discern, from either of the sites, whether they are oil based or water based!? Do you know what they are, or which one will absorb better into my new pine?
Aside from that, I am leaning towards the Defy Extreme. The TWP seems adequate. However, the Defy extreme’s “nano-technology”, synthetic resins, and natural pine tint are really appealing to me.
I just re-surfaced my deck, a week and a half ago. The perimeter floor joists, all floor planks, and all railings are new pressure treated pine. I have pressure washed the columns, joist support, and floor joists that remain from the original deck. I realize the old wood will not match the new wood once it is all stained. The sun is directly on the deck for the better part of the day. My main concern now is staining it too soon, or waiting too long to stain it. My questions are as follows:
1. How long do I need to wait before I stain everything?
2. Is it ok to stain if there is still a slight green hue from the chemicals?
3. How long does it take for the stamped ink on the new pine to go away?
4. Do you have a suggestion, as to oil based vs. water based, when it comes to pressure treated pine?
5. Are you familiar with the product, “Wolman F&P”? If so, how would you rate it?
6. Straight up, what is the best (top shelf) stain you would recommend to me in this given situation?
1. Depends on stain that you want to use but at least wait 1-2 months to let the wood dry.
2. Yes but it may show through a little.
3. Long time. At least a season in some cases.
4. Not really. Both are good. Only thing is that new wood is not very absorbent so oil based stains will penetrate better.
5. Wolman is an average stain at best.
6. There is not a “best” stain. I would look at the Defy Extreme or the TWP 1500 Series.
OOps sorry. I clicked too early.
TimberOil is supposedly a parrafin based oil product that contains algaecides and fungicides. My deck is pressure treated, and I have used Behrs semitransparent oil based cedar tone in the past. Looking for something better to apply over the existing stain.
Yes we have used the TimberOil. You cannot or should not apply any stain over the Behr. Behr is a very poor stain and applying a new coat of stain on top will not allow the new stains to properly penetrate or adhere to the wood.
Have you ever used a product called TimberOil?
I sanded a twenty year old cedar deck down to the bare wood. It looked great. While sanding the wood, I also sanded the nail heads down even with the surface. The wood was severly damaged from pressure washing. After a couple of days the deck started to get gray blotches and speckling all over. I realized the metal in the nails were spread throughout the deck due to sanding with a belt sander and were now oxidizing. I purchased Cabot Wood Brightener and it removed the gray. Two days later the graying was coming back. I want to stain the deck. How do I keep this oxidation from bleeding through the stain?
Rust from nail heads turns black not gray when the metal particles are exposed to rain. You should clean the deck thoroughly with a wood deck cleaner and then neutralize with a wood deck brightener at a high concentration. I would look at these products: Restore A deck
Thanks for the feedback. One last quesstion. Given the mildew/algae problems, would you lean toward a water-based synthetic or oil-based stain?
Does not matter but water based in general does better with mold/algae.